Conquering the Arkansas Sphinx: An Ozark Hiking Adventure

The Arkansas Sphinx, a natural rock formation that bears a striking resemblance to the ancient Egyptian monument, is a must-see for any nature lover or hiker.

The Hike to the Sphinx

The hike to the Arkansas Sphinx is a relatively short but challenging one. There are two main routes to choose from:

• Route 1: This is the shorter and steeper route, taking you directly up the hillside to the Sphinx. It's a great option for those who enjoy a quick and intense workout.

• Route 2: This route is longer and more gradual, offering a more leisurely ascent with some beautiful views along the way.

Regardless of which route you choose, be prepared for a steep climb with some rocky terrain. Proper hiking shoes and attire are essential.

The Reward: A Stunning View

Once you reach the summit, you'll be rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. The Arkansas Sphinx itself is a sight to behold, towering over the landscape and providing a unique photo opportunity.

Tips for Your Hike

• Check the weather: Arkansas weather can be unpredictable, so it's important to check the forecast before you set out.

• Bring plenty of water: The hike can be strenuous, so staying hydrated is crucial.

• Wear sunscreen: Protect your skin from the sun, especially on clear days.

• Be mindful of wildlife: Keep an eye out for local wildlife, such as deer, bear, and snakes.

The Arkansas Sphinx is a hidden gem in the Ozark Mountains, offering a challenging yet rewarding hiking experience. If you're looking for a unique adventure, be sure to add it to your itinerary.

Have you hiked to the Arkansas Sphinx? Share your experiences in the comments below!

A Scenic Drive Through History: Pea Ridge National Military Park

Pea Ridge National Military Park, nestled in the Ozark Mountains of Arkansas, offers a unique opportunity to explore a significant battleground of the American Civil War. A scenic drive through the park is a fantastic way to immerse yourself in history while enjoying breathtaking natural beauty.

The Drive: A Historical Adventure

The park's driving tour is approximately 11 miles long and takes about 45 minutes to complete. As you wind your way through the park, you'll encounter numerous historical markers, interpretive exhibits, and reconstructed fortifications.

• Key Points of Interest:

  • Elkhorn Tavern: A historic site where Union General James G. Blunt established his headquarters.

  • Pea Ridge National Battlefield Visitor Center: This modern facility offers informative exhibits, a theater,and a gift shop.

  • Union and Confederate Battlefields: Explore the sites where the opposing armies clashed, including the infamous "Bloody Corner."

  • Natural Beauty: Admire the park's diverse landscapes, including rolling hills, forests, and meadows.

Tips for Your Drive:

• Plan Ahead: Check the park's website for hours of operation, fees, and any special events.

• Wear Comfortable Shoes: You'll likely want to get out of your car and explore some of the trails on foot.

• Bring Water and Snacks: The drive can be a bit longer than you might expect, so it's a good idea to be prepared.

• Take Your Time: Enjoy the scenery and learn about the history of the battle.

A Memorable Experience

Whether you're a history buff or simply enjoy exploring the outdoors, a drive through Pea Ridge National Military Park is sure to be a memorable experience. As you wind through the park, you'll gain a deeper appreciation for the sacrifices made by the soldiers who fought here over 150 years ago.

Have you visited Pea Ridge National Military Park? What was your favorite part of the drive? Share your experiences in the comments below!

Lost Valley - Eden Falls, Buffalo National River, Arkansas

Lost Valley & Eden Falls

Buffalo National River, Arkansas

THE BASICS

Lost Valley Trail

Difficulty: Easy • Length: 2.3 Miles • Roundtrip Elevation: 252 ft

PLEASE PRACTICE THE SEVEN PRINCIPLES OF LEAVE NO TRACE: PLAN AHEAD, STAY ON THE TRAIL, PACK OUT WHAT YOU BRING TO THE HIKING TRAIL, PROPERLY DISPOSE OF WASTE, LEAVE AREAS AS YOU FOUND THEM, MINIMIZE CAMPFIRE IMPACTS, BE CONSIDERATE OF OTHER HIKERS, AND DO NOT APPROACH OR FEED WILDLIFE.

Boxley Valley Elk in the Lost Valley trailhead parking area, Buffalo National River Arkansas.

Trailhead and sign for the Lost Valley Trail, Buffalo National River, Arkansas

Hiker on a forested section of the Lost Valley Trail, Buffalo National River, Arkansas

Natural Bridge Falls at Lost Valley, Buffalo National River, Arkansas

Hiker in Cobb Cave along the Lost Valley Trail, Buffalo National River Area, Arkansas

Hiker under Eden Falls Cave Falls along the Lost Valley Trail, Buffalo National River Area, Arkansas

View more of my images from Lost Valley here.

Alum Cove Natural Bridge Geological Area // Ozark National Forest, Arkansas

ALUM COVE NATURAL BRIDGE GEOLOGICAL AREA

OZARK NATIONAL FOREST

One of the largest natural bridges (arches) in the Ozarks found in Alum Cove.

The Ozark National Forest is a true treasure trove of geological marvels, and one of its most extraordinary gems can be found nestled along the slopes of Henderson Mountain, near the charming town of Deer, Arkansas. This remarkable natural wonder goes by the name of Alum Cove Natural Bridge Geological Area, and it proudly showcases one of the largest and most magnificent natural bridges or arches in this region. Spanning an impressive length of 130 feet and boasting a width of 20 feet, this awe-inspiring arch stands as a testament to the passage of time and the ever-changing landscape of the Ozarks. The natural bridge is all that remains of what once was a quartz sandstone cave. Though the cave is long gone, the Alum Cove Natural Bridge continues to capture the imagination of visitors, inviting them to marvel at its beauty and ponder the forces of nature that sculpted such a remarkable formation.

The Basics

ALUM COVE NATURAL BRIDGE GEOLOGICAL AREA

Difficulty: Easy Length: 1.1 Miles Roundtrip Elevation: 272 ft

Please practice the seven principles of Leave No Trace: plan ahead, stay on the trail, pack out what you bring to the hiking trail, properly dispose of waste, leave areas as you found them, minimize campfire impacts, be considerate of other hikers, and do not approach or feed wildlife.

MC’s family came up over the weekend, and I wanted to take them on a great hike with plenty to see. The Alum Cove National Recreation Trail fit the bill perfectly. It is a relatively easy 1.1-mile roundtrip hike featuring caves, bluff lines, numerous tree species, water features, and wildlife. The area also has restroom facilities and a beautiful picnic area (camping is not allowed). If I were recommending family-friendly trails, this would only be second to the Lost Valley Trail.

The trail down to the Natural Bridge gradually makes its way downhill with multiple switchbacks.

The Trail makes its way through the picnic area and then gradually downhill, through multiple switchbacks, before bringing you to the top of the Natural Bridge. They say that early settlers used this “natural bridge” to move their wagons and livestock over the stream found in Alum Cove during wet periods.

The top of the Natural Bridge at Alum Cove.

The trail continues downhill from the top of the natural bridge to the bottom for one of the most speculator views in the area. I know some people will make the hike down for the sole purpose of seeing this view before returning to the trailhead. Still, there is more beauty to experience in the geological area, and I'd highly recommend continuing along the short loop across the cove.

Hikers can take the Natural Bridge loop in either direction, but I tend to take the trail at the far end of the arch. the trail wanders along the bluff and then gradually meanders a little further down into the cove to a stream. During wet periods this stream has some beautiful little cascade along with it, and if you look around, you may even find a salamander or crawdad. After crossing the stream, you will begin to climb a little toward another bluff line (this is the adjacent side of the cove that you came in on).

The trail will hug this bluff for a short time and take you past some incredible natural features. If you came in the way I usually do, then the first of these features is a crack in the bluff that you can walk through/behind that also has a smaller natural arch. This area is my second favorite part of the entire loop, and I usually take my time through here. There is a bench under the arch for anyone who wants to sit and take in the area's beauty.

A split in the bluff that you can walk through and behind featuring a smaller natural arch.

The relentless forces of wind and water have exerted their artistic prowess upon the majestic sandstone bluff line, bestowing upon it a plethora of awe-inspiring features. Among these magnificent formations, are a humble arch and porthole, delicately sculpted by the ceaseless caress of natural elements.

After leaving the crack in the bluff, you will soon come to a wet-weather waterfall. I’m sure it would be beautiful with significant rain, but I have not been during or after heavy rain despite the many times I have visited this trail.

After the waterfall, you come to a cave entrance (there are two ways to access this beautiful little bluff shelter, the easier being a little further up the trail). They say Native Americans used the rock overhangs and small caves for cover while on extended hunting trips through the area. Free-roaming goats inhabited the caves in more recent history, and locals now call these formations “goat houses.”

Silhouetted in the Goat House, a hiker looks out from the mouth of one of the multiple bluff shelters found along the Alum Cove loop.

Silhouetted in the Goat House, a hiker looks out from the mouth of one of the multiple bluff shelters found along the Alum Cove loop. As golden sunlight bathes the rugged cliffs in a warm glow, the hiker's eyes trace the jagged edges of the rocks, imagining the countless stories they hold within their ancient layers. The tranquility and solitude found within these natural sanctuaries offer a momentary escape from the hectic pace of everyday life, allowing the hiker to connect with the raw power and beauty of the surrounding wilderness. This magical encounter serves as a reminder of the intricate dance between nature and the adventurous spirit, inspiring the hiker to continue exploring and discovering the hidden gems that await around every corner.

After leaving the goat house, the trail will leave the bluff and begin taking you back toward the Natural Bridge and, ultimately, the trailhead. The way back has a little bit of hill climbing but nothing too strenuous. There are also benches found throughout the trail for anyone who’d like to take a breather.

Alum Cove Natural Bridge Geological Area is gorgeous during any season. Here are a couple of images of Spring and Winter from under the arch.

The Goat Trail along Big Bluff // Buffalo National River, Arkansas

The Goat Trail along Big Bluff

Buffalo National River

Basking in evenings glow-the Buffalo River flows below the Goat Trail on Big Bluff.

If I had to choose the most scenic viewpoint in Arkansas, then the view from the Goat Trail on Big Bluff over the Buffalo National River would have to be my pick. The vast panoramic views of the Buffalo winding through the mountains and bluffs of the Ponca Wilderness are unique and unparalleled. The bluff itself is "said to be" the tallest sheer vertical cliff face found between the Appalachians and the Rockies, with an estimated height of 560 feet! However, the Goat Trail runs along this cliff face at around 340 feet above the river.

On Tuesday, I decided to make my second hike out to the "big" bluff (this week). Because it's Milky Way season and Sunday nights attempt to catch the galactic center from the Goat Trail was foiled by dense fog socking me in (However, it did provide some beautiful foggy Monday morning views over the river). This particular evening seemed to have favorable conditions, so with my fingers crossed, MC and I headed over to the Centerpoint Trailhead to make our way down!

Whiteout conditions along the Goat Trail, a hiker illuminates a narrow bend from an alcove in Big Bluff, trying to see through the thick fog that has rolled in with the cooler evening temps. Shot during my first milky way attempt of the week.

Winding through the fog, the Buffalo River finally begins to emerge from the white veil of haze. Shot the morning after getting socked in by fog on the Goat Trail.

The three-mile hike down the Centerpoint trail went by pretty quickly. I left my camera in my pack and just went full steam down the old road. The descent down to the Goat Trail would be a pleasant stroll if it weren’t for the fact the road has been rutted out so severely by rain erosion and the hooves of horses. I often think about how great it would be if the county could still maintain this road and people could drive down it to get to the Goat Trail. I usually tell people thinking about hiking the trail that it feels like two miles down and six back out thanks to the one thousand plus feet of elevation change from start to finish. Still, the trail is popular enough as it is, and the big hike back out is one of the only things that seem to control those numbers these days slightly.

We arrived well before sunset at the fork of the Centerpoint Trail and the Goat trail - found on a large saddle in the mountain with open woods that are perfect for hammocks and an existing fire ring. This large saddle is where I usually try to camp, but several occupants were already there, so we used our extra time to scout out another option for camp. If you take the little well-worn spur trail to the right of the fire pit, it will lead you to Big Bluff, and if you stay straight on the main path, it eventually takes you all the way down to the river.

My usual campsite at the fork of the Centerpoint Trail and the Goat Trail on a large saddle in the mountain with open woods that are perfect for hammocks and an existing fire ring.

We decided to go to the far end of the Goat Trail and follow the path which leads down to the river to look for campsites off of the bluff (Camping on Big Bluff is prohibited by the National Park Service). We also took a side hike to bushwhack up to the top of Big Bluff and found a few impressive views, but the woods and underbrush were so thick that we decided to make our way back down before making it to the highest point.

During our excursion, we found a nice campsite away from the bluff, down on a flat open expanse on the mountain's ridge, with some decent trees for hammocks and an existing fire ring. We decided to call this home for the evening and set up our hammocks since it would be well after dark before we made it back.

Making camp on a flat open expanse of forest along the ridge of the mountain past the Goat Trail.

We made our way back toward the overlooks along the goat trail and through one of my favorite areas along the path, which wanders through a thicket of ancient junipers. Some of these trees have been dated back to over 800 years old by the National Park Service! After some time spent with these twisted and weathered beauties, we found our front row seats for sunset on the narrow sandstone ledges of the Goat Trail.

Sunset was more impressive than I had expected it would be - based on the time that the radar showed the clouds were going to move out. We ended up getting to witness a very vibrant and impressive sunset with a 180-degree view of the Buffalo River meandering through the Ozarks.

Ancient Juniper overlooking the Ponca Wilderness from the edge of Big Bluff.

Front-row seat for a sunset on the narrow sandstone ledges of the Goat Trail.

The Buffalo meandering through the Ozarks viewed from the Goat Trail at sunset.

Toward the end of sunset, we witnessed an incredible show as the moon set along with it. At the same time, lightning bugs began to dart all around the edge of the bluff. We enjoyed the show and ate some snacks we had brought to the bluff side. After the moon set, we still had a little time before the clouds would move completely out and the milky way would be fully visible. Thankfully there didn’t seem to be much moisture in the air, and no fog had begun to form, so it looked like tonight was the night for clear viewing of the milky way from the Goat Trail!

Around midnight, the milky way was in the proper position, and clouds had moved out enough for a great view of the galactic center! It was a beautiful sight, and I spent several hours snapping photos before calling it a night.

Moonset and fireflies viewed from the Goat Trail.

Self Portrait below the Milky Way

The Milky Way viewed from the Goat Trail on Big Bluff.

The Basics

Centerpoint Trail to the Goat Trail

Difficulty: Strenuous Length: 6 Miles Roundtrip Elevation: 1076 ft

High-Water at Hammerschmidt Falls // Buffalo National River, Arkansas

High-Water at Hammerschmidt Falls

Buffalo National River, Arkansas

Hammerschmidt Falls Prints available

I've been to Hammerschmidt Falls (named after John Paul Hammerschmidt, an Arkansas Congressman who played a HUGE role in getting the Buffalo River designated as America's first National River!) countless times over the years. It's an easy hike (roughly one-mile roundtrip) and often seems like a good option for a lazy day hike. The thing is that the falls (located on the upper-most section of the Indian Creek Drainage at high elevation) take a considerable amount of rainfall to get Hammerschmidt flowing to its full potential. I'm talking multiple inches of rainfall over a twenty-four-hour timespan kind of considerable rainfall, the type of rain that puts the Buffalo National River into flood stage.

On Saturday, after days of light rainfall, I went out to the falls with a couple of friends to see how it was flowing. It looked the same as usual, one shoot of water pouring off the left side of a jagged point in the middle of the falls (still beautiful but not what I was hoping for). That evening and into Sunday morning, about two inches of rain fell around the Ponca area sending the Buffalo River into flood stage, and I hoped this was my chance to see the 43' Hammerschmidt Falls in all its glory.

Below is a comparison of the flow at Hammerschmidt before and after a couple of inches of rain:

Hammerschmidt Falls after days of light rain w/ Justin for scale.

Hammerschmidt Falls after an evening of flooding rains w/ Tyler for scale.

Sunday morning, we parked at the top of the road to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, next to the $5.00 firewood stacks, crossed HWY 74, and started down the muddy road across from where we parked.

$5.00 firewood at the entrance to Horseshoe Canyon

I'm sure some people have vehicles capable of driving this road, but it's a muddy, rutted mess, and I would suggest not attempting to take a car down it. The hike is short enough as it is. We scrambled around the muddy puddles filled with the overflow from the private pond that sat next to the old road, made our way down along the red clay gravel, exited the forest into an opening, clear-cut for the power lines overhead, and then back into the woods.

The creek that feeds Hammerschmidt was running over the old road. It was higher than I had ever seen it flowing over the road, which made me extremely excited for what we would see just 100 yards downstream (the road continues into the forest, but to reach the falls, you'll turn left instead of crossing the stream and follow the drainage downstream).

High flow along the stream that feeds Hammerscmidt Falls

The well worn trail down to Hammerschmidt Falls flowing with overflow from nearby stream.

The little well-worn trail that hikers have beaten next to the creek was a stream in its own right, and I splashed quickly through it, only pausing to keep my balance along the slick rocks scattered around the top of the falls. Hammerschmidt was roaring, and as I made my way to the left of the falls (to get to a steep but accessible way to get to the bottom of the falls), I could see the full white veil of Hammerschmidt falling through the thick shroud of dark green late spring leaves….it was flowing just as I had hoped it would be!

The white veil of Hammerschmidt falling through a shroud of dark green late spring leaves

The cascades above Hammerscmidt Falls are beautiful in their own right.

The Basics

Difficulty: Easy Length: 1-Mile-ish Roundtrip Elevation: 150 Feet

Old River Trail // Buffalo National River, Arkansas

OLD RIVER TRAIL

BUFFALO NATIONAL RIVER, ARKANSAS

The Old River Trail, stretching for a little over 13 miles, winds its way through the picturesque bottomlands of the Buffalo River, connecting the towns of Ponca and Erbie. Long before the establishment of America’s First National River and the rise of tourism in in the area, settlers of buffalo river country used these very same paths to transport their horses and wagons along the river. Walking along this trail, you can find remnants of these families' homesteads, all but completely reclaimed by the surrounding forest. It is truly awe-inspiring to witness these snippets of a bygone era and to imagine the hardships that were endured in this unforgiving part of the Ozarks. Horseback riders almost exclusively use the trail, but some hikers use it to connect an extensive network of other footpaths in the area (like the BRT, which intertwines throughout the length of the ORT). The ORT offers incredible views of Buffalo River Country. The up-close and personal scenes that you can usually only see while floating the river (in comparison, the ORT provides many more scenic opportunities than the BRT (which mostly keeps you tucked back in the forest, away from scenic vistas).

Fall and Winter tend to be the most popular times to tackle the Old River Trail. However, no matter the season, thoroughly planning your trip is a must if you want to have a successful and enjoyable experience. Starting your journey with torrential rain in the forecast could easily dampen your spirits and make the trail impassable. During the summer, the ORT becomes very overgrown, so be prepared to navigate through dense foliage and brush. Additionally, ticks, chiggers, and even mosquitos can be a nuisance and potentially pose health risks, so pack bug spray and wear appropriate clothing to protect yourself. One important factor to consider when planning your trip is the river crossings. There are twenty river crossings along the ORT, and they can become treacherous during the rainy Spring months or any season with heavy rainfall. Being aware of the weather conditions and checking river levels before starting your hike is crucial to ensure your safety and avoid any potential hazards. It's worth noting that the Old River Trail is a shared-use trail, meaning it is open to both equestrian and hiking activities. If you choose to explore the trail on foot, be mindful of horse droppings along the way!

During this year's peak autumn color display here in Ponca, I had the amazing opportunity to experience the Old River Trail as it was truly intended - by horseback! While I've hiked segments of the ORT numerous times before, either to reach breathtaking scenic spots or to connect with other stunning hiking trails in the area, I had never explored it from this unique perspective. What a treat it was to not only give my legs a much-needed break but to also witness the wonders of the Ponca wilderness from an entirely different vantage point, especially during this particularly beautiful fall color year.

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